All of the Mexicans I met and told I had visited San Miguel de Allende would wax lyrical about what a wonderful place it was, and that it’s probably the most beautiful town in all of Mexico. They’d also inevitably add that it’s neighbour, Guanajuato, is nice but just not as beautiful as San Miguel. Interestingly, most of what I’d read online before visiting this part of the world seemed to indicate the opposite.
Both of these colonial cities, situated in the state of Guanajuato and just an hour apart from each other, are UNESCO World Heritage Sites, and indeed they are both visually impressive. But what sets them apart? Which has more life, more soul? And which is really more beautiful? Of course, the answer to that last question will be entirely subjective, but here are some of the things that make these two cities distinct despite often being lumped together.
Guanajuato has a long tradition of music and theatre, and has a lot going on on a day-to-day basis in terms of culture. For example, there are regular classic and modern music concerts, as well as ballet and other kinds of dance performances at Teatro Juarez. It’s also a university town, so there plenty of things going on aimed at that part of the population. Both towns receive a lot of tourists, but San Miguel de Allende feels more touristy; and beyond the main sights of the church, the pedestrian area and the Mercado de Artesanias, which is clearly aimed at foreign tourists, there isn’t as much going on.
Guanajuato is clearly a town where people of multiple, different social classes and financial means live, and this is reflected in the kinds of housing you’ll find around town. While there are some parts of the centre of Guanajuato that are not in such a good state, it is still rather grand and colonial. But outside of the centre, you’ll see much more modest homes. Still, they are all painted in bold, bright colours! On the other hand, San Miguel de Allende is more homogenous, and may actually have a better preserved downtown, no doubt due to its higher popularity with tourists.
Geographically, the two towns are quite different. San Miguel de Allende sits on a plateau and is relatively flat. Nearby, there are lakes, and along the shores you can take some lovely walks; but otherwise, the surrounding landscape is not especially interesting. Guanajuato is itself a very hilly town with many steep roads that’ll give you a workout to climb, with a series of tunnels for cars passing beneath them. It’s also surrounded by hills, some of which are worth the climb, such as Cerro de la Bufa for the views down over the town and surrounding valley.
After some consideration, I suspect that this might be the case: North Americans (Mexicans included, of course) will prefer San Miguel de Allende for its pristine architecture, manicured plazas, and quaintness, as this is rather rare thing to see on that continent; whereas Europeans will prefer Guanajuato for its imperfect beauty, vibrancy and the fact that it’s a living, breathing city.
To this European, I guess San Miguel de Allende didn’t feel particular special. There are many towns like it in Europe; but from a Mexican perspective, I can see why it is so appealing, and there doesn’t seem to be anywhere else like it in the country as it felt somewhat like a transplanted European town in North America. Guanajuato has several of the pleasant aspects of colonial towns in Mexico, but felt a lot more Mexican to me than San Miguel de Allende, which is probably why I liked it better!
Have you ever been to San Miguel de Allende or Guanajuato? If so, what’d you think? Any suggestions for things to see and do? Let us know your thoughts in the comments!
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